DavidP

joined 7 months ago
[โ€“] DavidP@lemmy.world 2 points 1 day ago

Check your library system, that's where I read it.

[โ€“] DavidP@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

For sure, clamps are important! There's a gap between the top of the cabinet and the underside of the bench.

I will admit though that's it's sometimes necessary to position the clamp with the bar extending below the surface - in that case not having drawers would be best ๐Ÿ‘

[โ€“] DavidP@lemmy.world 3 points 2 days ago (1 children)

I think it should be renamed "red-capped woodpecker".

That photo captured one with a very red belly!! The ones in our backyard have just a blush of orange.

[โ€“] DavidP@lemmy.world 2 points 4 days ago

I use an inshave (aka scorp), compass plane, curved scrapers, and sandpaper for my seats. It's laborious! Just started on another tonight and of course it has a few stubborn spots.

Good question about the bench. It's a 5" pine top but it dried funny, curving inward at the top. So I inlaid a maple strip to get the front back to square.

 

Researching work benches will often show many examples of the sliding deadman. I opted not to put one on my bench because I valued drawer space more.

On the rare occasion when I need to support a piece from the bottom I'll just use a clamp in expansion mode.

[โ€“] DavidP@lemmy.world 2 points 1 week ago (2 children)

Hah I bet we have the same fish spatula!

[โ€“] DavidP@lemmy.world 1 points 1 week ago (4 children)

Go with a carbon steel pan over cast iron. Similar performance but without the weight.

 

Here's a simple box I just finished. Cherry with dovetailed corners.

It turned out well but I regret using cheap hardware from Amazon,especially the stamped hinges.

Finish sequence:

  1. 180
  2. 220
  3. Coat Minwax "Tung" oil wet sanded with 320
  4. Oil wet sanded with 400
  5. #0000 steel wood and paste wax